Sunday, September 16, 2012

Prague

The eastern European cities all have very similar characteristics. There is a river typically running through the city, with a castle normally at the top of a hill adjacent to the river. Add in an 'old town', some old city walls, and poof you've got your city. Prague seems to be the most popular of these cities for tourists. It reminded me a lot of Budapest.

Prague was a little over three weeks into the trip, and all the traveling caught up with us a bit. Turns out traveling like this is exhausting. As Americans, I think we are accustomed to two weeks being a really long vacation (as compared to Kiwis who might go for a month or more). Even with slowing down the pace, we found some great spots in Prague. Couple of things we saw:

An astrological tower that has fantastic views of the city.

A classic castle on top of the hill with a towering church and a medieval street with tiny houses (golden lane).

A walking tour of the Jewish quarter were we learned all about Czech Jewish history, especially around WW II.

A museum on communism and a walk through the huge boulevard where the Czech people would protest against Soviet communist rule.

A stop by the Lenin wall where Czechs would graffiti Beatles quotes on the wall to peacefully protest the communist rule. The tradition continues today with new artists leading the way.

Monday, September 10, 2012

Mad Ludwig's Castle

We escaped Munich's city life for a day and took a journey to the Neuschwanstein Castle. This is no ordinary castle. Built in the medieval style in the mid 1800s by "mad" German king Ludwig, the interior was only partially finished when he was deemed insane and unfit to rule. Shortly after having his crown taken away, he was found dead along with his psychiatrist in the nearby lake. To this day, it's still a mystery as to what exactly happened. Ludwig II didn't like spending time in Munich and apparently the people of Munich didn't like him very much. Even through all this tragedy, we are left with a great castle to view in an unbelievably beautiful setting.

The castle is incredibly well preserved. The view from a nearby bridge is breathtaking. This us the castle Disney modeled Sleeping Beauty after. Photos weren't allowed inside, but it was impressive as well. Ludwig went over the top in every facet, with plenty of gold plating and intricate wood carving. Completely over the top....but I guess that is what you get from a "mad" King.

Munich - Here Comes the Rain

Unfortunately our string of sunny weather came to an end in Munich. Right as September rolled in, the searing heat we felt in the first half of our trip melted away, but rain accompanied the cooler weather. Without clear skies, the camera didn't make it out of the bag often so I'm sorry for the paucity of photos.

We did however make it to a few sites indoors that kept us occupied. As Munich was home to the Wittlebachs, rulers of Bavarian Germany for seven hundred years, there was another palace to tour. While the treasury wasn't quite up to the Hapsburgs, the living quarters were more impressive. How would I look in one of those crowns? Pretty good right? Afterwards I sighed relief as I wouldn't be touring any more palaces until....London in two weeks. That's enough recovery time.

Munich is also famous for their beer halls. You might be contractually obligated to visit a beer hall as a tourist in Munich, so we followed along (this is the home of Oktoberfest after all). The beer halls were packed with people. You could spot the serious locals by their old school feathered green caps, lederhosen, and leather shoes. They serve beer in 1 liter mugs- Yes, a full liter! There is also a band playing classic Bavarian tunes. It's basically one big party. You search to find an empty seat at one of the large picnic style tables. We ended up sitting with a Brazilian couple and a Japanese couple (like I said, you're practically obligated to go as a tourist) and "enjoyed" a classic meal of bratwurst and sauerkraut.

At this point in the trip, we had hit a wall with the meat and potato-heavy menus (see Bratislava post about where this really started). Austrians and Germans love their sausages, schnitzel, and any other heavy foods. Craving salad, we found a quick service Italian chain called Vapiano's. If you are living around DC, they have a few there. Great food that's made right in front of you and fairly quickly. We went three times in three days in Munich to get away from all the meat and potatoes!

Salzburg - Home of Mozart Balls

Salzburg is famous as the birthplace of Mozart and the setting for the Sound of Music movie. Mozart must be a serious money-making draw because his name is in everything from restaurants and hotels to candy (the famous mozart balls of marzipan and chocolate). Salzburg is charming with historical churches, cobblestoned streets, and a backdrop of stunning mountain scenery. The town had a energetic vibe as the yearly Salzburg Music Festival was going on. Tickets sell out months in advance, with operas and concerts costing several hundred to a thousand dollars a piece...

We spent two days in Salzburg, one of which we used to take a side trip to the Bavarian Alps. Only a short 30 minute bus ride took us to the alpine town of Berchtesgaden in Germany. From there another bus that climbed several thousand feet up a mountain to drop us off at Eagles Nest, Hitler's "retreat in the hills". There was a 'documentation center' that detailed the rise and fall of the Nazis and a bunker system built into the mountain as a planned hiding place for the end of WW II (Hitler never made it back there though...)

While the Nazis committed unforgivable atrocities during their reign, they did know how to pick out a nice spot for a bunker. The views from the mountain were fantastic.